Daniel W. Fletcher’s starting point for his AW17 collection was the turbulence experienced during 2016 – the feeling of cynicism and disenchantment has enveloped the world, but also the need within that for young voices to be heard.
For AW17, Fletcher draws upon sportswear visuals and the 1970s – another period of dramatic political and cultural shifts.
Fletcher’s clothes create a uniform for the youth of today, who feel isolated and unwelcome in a world where their opinions are poorly reflected by political systems and policies.
Leather patchwork is one of the strongest visual themes, transforming Fletcher’s ideas of repairing broken trust and rebuilding social bonds into the casually luxurious daywear synonymous with the designer. Understated luxury continues to be an essential part of Fletcher’s aesthetic, with shearling netball vests and hand drawn silks combining high-end fabrics with
a sense of nostalgia.
The volume of subverted tailoring in the collections speaks to a desire to play ‘the Suits’ at their own game – jackets and trousers are turned inside out, binding is brazenly displayed as a statement feature and sportswear stripes appear on traditional outerwear. Suede caps are given a tough outer layer of bonded leather reminiscent of helmets. Looks are completed with leather boot bags and a collaboration with Camper has resulted in chunky brogues.
This season’s colour palette – black, navy, rust, cream and tan – is perhaps the richest and darkest to date, as the brand’s political standings have grown more mature, and perhaps darker, alongside the brand’s aesthetic.
Presented in the style of a political rally, canvassing flyers for each model fill the space whilst the candidates stand tall on their podiums – a nod to the continued importance of political engagement for young people, and to the significance of voting in making sure the voices of the youth are heard.
The presentation was styled by Michael Darlington.